Developing Suitable Raw Materials for Products to Enhance Competitive Edge
Recently, the National Medical Products Administration announced that Marubi Biotechnology Co.,Ltd (referred to as Marubi) and Yixian E-commerce Co., Ltd. (referred to as Yixian) have completed the filing for their respective raw materials, “Orange Peel Extract” and “Fermentation Filtrate of Bifidobacterium/Lactobacillus/Soybean Seed Extract.” Both materials have entered the monitoring phase.
According to the information released by the NMPA on 2023/09/21, the filing for “Fermentation Filtrate of Bifidobacterium/Lactobacillus/Soybean Seed Extract” was completed and entered the monitoring phase. This material, provided by Yixian, is a biotechnological ingredient that can be used as a skin protectant, oil control agent, moisturizer, and exfoliant. The recommended safe usage amount is ≤5.0%.
4 days later (2023/09/25), the filing for “Orange Peel Extract,” sourced from Marubi, was also approved and entered the monitoring phase. This plant-based ingredient can be added to cosmetics as a skin protectant and moisturizer (except for spray-type products). The suggested usage percentage in cosmetics is 0.039-5.0%, and it is recommended to add it in the final stage of cosmetic production, at a temperature not exceeding 40°C.
It is worth mentioning that both the “Fermentation Filtrate of Bifidobacterium/Lactobacillus/Soybean Seed Extract” and “Orange Peel Extract” are the first newly filed raw materials for cosmetics by Yixian and Marubi.
“Chemical Raw materials, as the core of cosmetic innovation, are not only an important carrier for the innovation and development of cosmetics companies, but alsoa critical factor in determining product effectiveness. Especially for beauty brands, successfully developing a core raw material for their own use is equivalent to owning a whole body.” said Shao, a researcher from the Beijing Cosmetics Research Institute.
However, it should be noted that the filing of new cosmetic chemical materials does not mean they have been approved. The public disclosure of the filed materials does not imply their safety and functionality have been recognized. Additionally, registered and filed new cosmetic materials still need to undergo a three-year monitoring period.
In the domestic cosmetics industry, most factories and brands have fixed roles: factories are responsible for raw material and product manufacturing, while brands do not need to focus on independent research and development of raw materials. They mainly handle product marketing, making it a profitable business model.
Shao said, “From research and development to filing, and then successfully passing the monitoring period, it not only requires a long cycle but also substantial financial investment. For brand owners, it is something that cannot bring short-term benefits, so they are often unwilling to invest too much energy in raw material development.”
However, with the rise of “ingredient fans” and “efficacy enthusiasts,” cosmetic brands are gradually paying more attention to product research and the development of basic raw materials. More and more brands are trying to break the stereotype of “light R&D and heavy marketing” and start developing their own raw materials.
As of September 27th, there have been 34 filings for new cosmetic materials in 2023. Among them, brands like Betaine, Shuiyang, Yixian, and Wansheng, which have their own brands, accounted for nine filings.
It is worth mentioning that the number of brand filings for new materials in 2023 has increased by 66.7% compared to the previous year. Clearly, brand filings for materials are becoming a trend.
Shao said, “In recent years, more and more brand owners are seeking cooperation with research institutes to jointly develop materials, and many brands have set up their own research laboratories and employed overseas senior cosmetic formulation experts to conduct independent research on materials. Brand owners are attaching more importance to raw material development.”
According to Yun, a cosmetics raw material merchant, it is inevitable for brands to develop their own materials. “Raw materials are the ‘chips’ of cosmetics. Brands that have independently developed core materials establish unique technological barriers and market advantages. Meanwhile, with strong marketing, they can quickly seize the market.”
However, Yun also pointed out that developing a new material is not an easy task. Only by developing materials that are suitable for their own products can brands further enhance their product competitiveness. On this basis, how to turn new materials into a technology that cannot be surpassed within the industry and form its own shield depends on how much effort the brand puts into subsequent research and development.
